From 1049de92203d6fcd8270e2b66e127811eece20fa Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Jeff Hayes Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2024 18:15:31 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 1/2] Update hammer_dressing.md I saw (too late) that my update is duplicating the intent of the last two sections should I move my content to the end as you do .. OR just remove the last 2 sections --- content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md | 34 ++++++++++++++++++---- 1 file changed, 29 insertions(+), 5 deletions(-) diff --git a/content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md b/content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md index 830e381..0281e7e 100644 --- a/content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md +++ b/content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md @@ -6,20 +6,44 @@ tags: - howto --- {{< notice warning >}} -Always wear a respirator and eye protection when grinding metal - +Always wear a respirator and eye protection when grinding metal{{/br}} Never operate an angle grinder without the guard securely installed {{< /notice >}} ## Why should I do this? -Dressing your hammer face will prevent unsightly marks left by the edges on the faces of most commercially produced hammers. It is also a way to reprofile the hammer face, making it more (or less) convex and thus more (or less) aggressive in moving material. +The edges on the faces of most commercially produced hammers are sharp enough to leave marks on your workpiece if a strike lands at a small angle. +Dressing your hammer's surface will reduce the chance of this. + +Experience and personal taste will eventuallly inform as to how much one should round off a hammer's edges. +A reasonable starting point is to create a radius of about 2 mm (1/8 inch) on the edges of a hammer that you intend to use to smooth a surface. + +On a hammer that will be used to fuller (spread out) the work you might want to reprofile it to a rounded shape. The more convex (the rounder) you make it the more agressively it will move the metal. + +Avoid using a double cut file for dressing as it will likely leave marks on the tool. +Someone with good filing technique may be able to dress a tool without needing to finish by sanding or grinding. + +Flatters and Setters may also be dressed. +Both need their striking surface to be absolutley flat, with the edges of the flatter rounded gradually from about 4 mm (1/4 inch) from the edge, and the edges of a setter to be made as square as possible. + +Machine grinding will obviously speed up the dressing process, but one has to pay close attention to the grit used, and how the grinder is held to the tool. +A sandpaper grit of 120 or smaller value will leave scratches on the tool's surface that can affect the finish of the workpiece. +Tools for working softer metals (gold, aluminum etc.) should even be polished to as high as 500 grit to ensure success when planishing. + +{{< notice warning >}} +Using machine assistance to dress surfaces correctly requires skill and stability to avoid harming the utility of a dressed tool. +The tool being dressed is best clamped, leveled, and arm supports used to hold the grinder perpindicular to the axis of the tool. + +Using a flap wheel is not recommended as there is less control over the position and angle of grinding than with a belt or surface grinder. +{{< /notice >}} ## You Will Need -### Materials +### Consumable Materials -- [ ] Sandpaper, flap discs, or grinder belts +- [ ] Sandpaper +- [ ] flat, single cut file +- [ ] (Optional) flap discs, or grinder belts ### Equipment From a010b1d5719babd066110956d8a27f8f3446c2f5 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Jeff Hayes Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2024 00:43:34 +0200 Subject: [PATCH 2/2] Update hammer_dressing.md more I still cannot find any documentation on the {{}} markup so I hope I am using it correctly. Feedback on the whether I should use the procedure sections at the end of the page, or not, would be good .. I like having the text flow from "cause of problem" to "fix for problem" all in a block, but if Hammerbros style wants it to stay as is I can move paragraphs around to fit it --- content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md | 20 +++++++++++++------- 1 file changed, 13 insertions(+), 7 deletions(-) diff --git a/content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md b/content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md index 0281e7e..7aa0adc 100644 --- a/content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md +++ b/content/pages/equipment/hammer_dressing.md @@ -13,7 +13,8 @@ Never operate an angle grinder without the guard securely installed ## Why should I do this? The edges on the faces of most commercially produced hammers are sharp enough to leave marks on your workpiece if a strike lands at a small angle. -Dressing your hammer's surface will reduce the chance of this. +Found hammers that you wish to re-purpose or rescue from the rust pile may come with an overly rounded surface, an indented or tilted surface, or even have chips knocked out of them +Dressing your hammer will reduce the chance of these problems marring your work. Experience and personal taste will eventuallly inform as to how much one should round off a hammer's edges. A reasonable starting point is to create a radius of about 2 mm (1/8 inch) on the edges of a hammer that you intend to use to smooth a surface. @@ -26,6 +27,11 @@ Someone with good filing technique may be able to dress a tool without needing t Flatters and Setters may also be dressed. Both need their striking surface to be absolutley flat, with the edges of the flatter rounded gradually from about 4 mm (1/4 inch) from the edge, and the edges of a setter to be made as square as possible. +Using a vise to hold the hammer as you work on it is recommended. +It is important to keep the striking surface perpindicular to the axis of the hammer. + +When cleaning up a hammer will require a larger effort removing the handle can make it easier to clamp the hammer's head as you work on it. + Machine grinding will obviously speed up the dressing process, but one has to pay close attention to the grit used, and how the grinder is held to the tool. A sandpaper grit of 120 or smaller value will leave scratches on the tool's surface that can affect the finish of the workpiece. Tools for working softer metals (gold, aluminum etc.) should even be polished to as high as 500 grit to ensure success when planishing. @@ -33,7 +39,6 @@ Tools for working softer metals (gold, aluminum etc.) should even be polished to {{< notice warning >}} Using machine assistance to dress surfaces correctly requires skill and stability to avoid harming the utility of a dressed tool. The tool being dressed is best clamped, leveled, and arm supports used to hold the grinder perpindicular to the axis of the tool. - Using a flap wheel is not recommended as there is less control over the position and angle of grinding than with a belt or surface grinder. {{< /notice >}} @@ -42,21 +47,22 @@ Using a flap wheel is not recommended as there is less control over the position ### Consumable Materials - [ ] Sandpaper -- [ ] flat, single cut file - [ ] (Optional) flap discs, or grinder belts ### Equipment -- [ ] A hammer +- [ ] the hammer to be dressed +- [ ] flat, single cut file(s) - [ ] (Optional) an angle grinder or belt grinder -- [ ] (Optional, but very helpful) a vise (to hold your hammer while you sand it) +- [ ] (Best Practice) a vise ## The Process ### Make sure the flat face is actually flat -Sometimes commercially produced hammers have a very slight indent on the flat face. Grind or sand the flat face down until it is flat +Sometimes commercially produced hammers have a very slight indent on the flat face. Grind or sand the flat face down until it is flat. +Gluing a sheet of sandpaper onto a panel or table top and then rubbing the hammer head over it can make it easier to keep it vertical. ### Remove sharp edges -Most commercially produced hammers have sharp edges on one or both faces. These edges will add unsightly marks to your work and should be sanded or ground away. +Most commercially produced hammers have sharp edges on their edges that should be smoothed and rounded off to mitigate the risk having them mark on your work.